Leopard Geckos

Fat Tail Geckos

 

Housing

The optimum enclosure for a Leopard Gecko is a 20 Gallon Long tank. What the long means is that instead of being tall like regular fish tanks, it is longer intead to creat more floor space. If you are housing more than one Leopard Gecko in a tank you must take into account that you need to add 10 Gallons per Leopard Gecko.If you are housing geckos together ensure that they are very close in size and be prepared to house them seperately should they being to fight.. A larger gecko will dominate a smaller gecko which will cause stress and possibly even death. NEVER house two males together, they will fight to the death. If you house more than one gecko together you must pay attention to things such as bite marks. tail loss, or weight loss. All these things could mean that one of your Leopard Geckos is being bullied. It may seem minor at the time but it could lead to much more and much worse.


As mentioned beforehand, the most common terrarium used for Leopard Geckos are glass tanks. In each enclosure there needs to be two hides for each gecko. There will need to be one on the cool side and one on the hot side. Your "warm" hide should be open on the bottom so that the Leopard Gecko can get the proper belly heat needed for digestion(will discuss this more later). Your moist hide needs to be on the cool side to prevent humidity buildup, too much humidity could cause respiratory infections. My moist hides are ziploc containers filled about halfway with sphagnum moss. I cut a hole in the lid and mist the moss whenever it begins to dry out. The moist hide is there to aid in shedding and gives them a place to cool off if they get too warm. A shallow water dish should be place in the enclosure on the cool side as well. I use clay planter pot bottoms because they are shallow enough even for hatchlings. You will also need to provide a small container of calcium for them to lick at as they feel they need it. I use Gatorade lids, water bottle lids, anything like that for this and it works great. When a gecko senses it needs more calcium, it will lick the calcium as much as is needed. 
         

                              20 Gallon Long Tank                                                                      Lid For Tank

 

Substrate

All pet stores will tell you to put your Leopard Geckos on sand, this is an error, in my opinion. The worst is the calcium sand because it encourages the Leopard Gecko to eat it becuase there is calcium in it. The Leopard Gecko can not digest sand. This can lead to impaction(constipation) which if not taken proper care of can lead to grave illness. I personally suggest paper towels for my hatchlings or any gecko that I am putting in quarantine and Peel and stick tiles for a more permanent enclosure

.                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Slate Tile                                                       Peel and Stick Tile                                        Paper Towel 


Temperatures

Since leopard geckos are considered crepsecular(most active during the late evening and early morning), you will not need any special lighting of any kind.  For heating, you will need an under tank heater, heat cable, or flex watt. Leopard geckos need the under belly heat to aid in digestion. Position your heat source under the tank on one end as to provide a heat gradient. It should cover no more than 1/3 of your tank. Your heat source should be plugged into a thermostat at all times, and the thermostat probe should be on the surface of your substrate, under your "hot" hide. The temperature on the surface of the hot side should be between 92-95 degrees.  Heat rocks may sound like a good idea but it is very common that reptiles get burned on them. 


              Heat Cable                                       Flex Watt                                                           Under Tank Heater

 

 

Feeding
 

 I suggest mealworms and superworms as the main diet of your gecko. I also feed crickets on occasion so they can have the fun hunt and get some exercise. If you get your feeders from a store, make sure they are gut loaded for at least 24 hours before feeding. I use apples, oranges, carrots, potatoes, and high protein dry dog food for my insects. Basically gutloading is feeding the worms before you feed them to your leo so that they contain many good nutrients.

Whichever insect you choose to use, please make sure that what you are feeding is the correct size. A baby or small juvenile geckos should only be fed mealworms or baby supers. Babies or small juvies I feed every day and adults I feed every second day. If you have a gecko that is losing some weight or being picky, you can also offer wax worms to try and assits in getting them back on to food. They are high in fat but very low in protein and geckos can get addicted to them if given them too much.
 
 
                       Meal Worms                                            Super Worms                                                     Crickets

Supplementation
 
 If you are using just calcium to dust with, you will also need to provide the geckos with vitamin D3 as well. I would suggest dusting with calcium every feeding, and adding some D3 to the mixture no more than twice a week. If your gecko does not get the right amount of calcium, it can very easily lead to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). If this condition arises, you may need to provide a calcium dish, as well as a liquid calcium supplement.
           Reptile Calium With D3